My Altoona Tote is a classic bag pattern that looks great in a wide variety of fabrics, prints, and different webbing options. But as I was sewing the PILE of bags I made for the pattern’s release, I couldn’t get the idea of a patchwork version out of my head.
So I grabbed my Ruby Star Society scraps and sewed up this fun patchwork Altoona Tote! I am in LOVE with how it turned out, and plan to make more in the future. Plus, when I brought it with me to an industry trade show, so many people complimented me on this fun, rainbow bag. I said “Thanks, I made it!” so many times that I was grinning ear to ear.
When I shared this version on Instagram, I received a LOT of questions about how I modified the pattern to achieve this look. So today I’m sharing all my secrets (and the math) for a patchwork version of my popular Altoona Tote.
This is a real hack
Let me start by saying that I made this patchwork version differently than I normally make my Altoona Totes. I had to modify some of the construction methods, as well as the size that I cut one of the pieces. I’ll outline all of the changes I made below, but I just want you to know that you do have to alter the pattern in order to achieve this look.
Quick aside: I much prefer the methodology set out in the pattern as it’s written. I think it leaves more room for error and is generally less fiddly. And that’s why I didn’t include the patchwork instructions in the pattern itself - I wanted to keep things nice and simple.
Also? This bag turned out a slightly different size than the pattern indicates.
If you’re cool with the above issues, I hope you’ll follow along and make your own patchwork version of the Altoona Tote! I know I couldn’t help myself!
Choosing fabric
I knew right away that I wanted to make my patchwork panels from Ruby Star Society fabric. It’s what I sew with the most, which meant that I had the most variety of colours and prints. Plus, I had a stack of mini charm packs from different lines that I was eager to put to use.
When I laid out all the 2.5” squares I had on hand, I debated whether I should create a “refined” colour palette or just go full rainbow. In the end, I chose to use allllll the colours and I have no regrets!
Laying out patchwork panel
I laid out my squares in a 11 W x 4 H grid with a diagonal rainbow ombre pattern, using my design wall (a piece of batting that I thumb tacked to the wall two years ago) to decide on my square placement.
There’s an unlimited number of colour combinations and designs that would look great here - I can’t wait to see some of them popping up in my Instagram feed!
Sewing and pressing patchwork panel
Once I was happy with my placement, I sewed the squares together using the webbing method. This made the job go so quickly, and in no time I had a cutie patootie panel.
Whenever possible, I like to press my seams in a swirl pattern. This results in a much flatter quilt / bag which makes my longarmer heart happy. I was delighted when I realized that I could swirl these seams!
After I had one completed panel, I created a second one (the same size and shape, but using different fabrics). One panel will become the front of the bag, and the other panel will be the back.
I like that I managed to get horses into both the front and back of this bag!
Attach panels and lining fabric to stabilizer
Here’s where things started to differ from the pattern. Instead of cutting a larger-than-needed piece of lining fabric and stabilizer, I cut my stabilizer (Soft and Stable foam) and my lining fabric to the size indicated in Step 1c of the pattern. I used Odif 505 Adhesive Spray to stick the lining fabric to the foam and then flipped it over so the bare side of the foam was facing up.
Next, I affixed my patchwork panels to the ends of my piece of foam (making sure that they were facing away from each other). As you can see in the photo, this left a large piece of foam in the middle which was not covered in fabric, which is quite different from what the pattern instructs you to do.
Why leave a gap?
There was no way I was going to create a giant patchwork panel the size of my Stabilizer and then cover a big chunk of it up with the Contrast Bottom - I wanted to show off every inch of my pretty squares!
So why not write the pattern this way? It would certainly save a bit of the Exterior Fabric. However, I found it more difficult to explain this method, and I personally don’t enjoy quilting the panel this way. It also requires more precision when there’s a gap in the Stabilizer, because the Contrast Bottom HAS to be the correct size to cover the raw edge of the top / bottom fabric (patchwork) panels.
Overall, I decided it was much simpler to write the pattern using a large piece of Exterior Fabric and then cover it up with the Contrast Bottom. You are of course welcome to modify the pattern in any way that you like!
Creating the quilted panel
With my lining fabric and patchwork panels attached to the foam, I marked my quilting lines using a Sewline Air Erasing Pen. I chose to do a simple cross hatching pattern, with the quilting lines running from corner to corner in the fabric squares.
I started by marking and quilting all of the lines in one direction, then I marked and quilted the lines going in the opposite direction.
When it comes to quilting anything larger than a fat quarter, I like to use my Janome MC 6700P sewing machine. Its dual feed system makes quilting a BREEZE!
Cutting the Contrast Bottom
Since my patchwork was so wild, I decided to keep my contrast fabric nice and simple. I opted for an Essex Yarn Dyed Linen (in Black) and loved the touch of class that it added to my patchwork Altoona Tote.
Because of the size of the patchwork panels, I needed to cut my Contrast Bottom slightly larger than what the pattern suggests in Step 2. I cut every other piece of the Contrast Fabric the size that was indicated in the pattern, and pressed the long edges of the Contrast Bottom under ½” as per the pattern’s instructions.
Preparing Handles
Since I was using decorative webbing (Ruby Star Society Starry in 1” wide) for the handles, I was able to skip a few steps in the pattern. However, if you were making fabric-covered handles for this project, you would follow the pattern’s directions for the size and method for creating them. The only difference for the handles is the placement.
Handle placement
I followed the pattern’s instructions for Step 7b and marked the panel, measuring from the top and from the sides. I aligned the cut edges of the webbing according to the pattern’s directions, which meant that the ends of the handles extended past the patchwork section. Excellent - that’s what we want!
For the distance from the sides, I chose to center the handles over one of the vertical seams in the patchwork (using the seam that was closest to the marked line). I personally think it looks more intentional this way.
Finishing the patchwork Altoona Tote
From this point, I followed the pattern directions as they were written. I attached the Contrast Bottom, prepared the Quilted Panel, and attached the bindings as instructed in the pattern.
Main differences
The changes that you need to make for the patchwork Altoona Tote are:
- Create two patchwork panels
- Cut the Stabilizer and Lining Fabric to the size indicated in Step 1c
- Leave a big gap in the Stabilizer when attaching your patchwork panels
- Cut the Contrast Bottom to a different size
- Adjust the Handle placement so the ends extend past the patchwork panel and are centered on a seam.
Not too bad, right?
I’ll include all the details below so you can easily reference them if you choose to make one of your own:
Specific changes for each size
Mini
- Create two patchwork panels in two 8 W x 2 T grids using 2.5” squares. This will require a total of 32 2.5” squares. Each panel will measure 4.5” T x 16.5” W.
- Alternatively, you can create two patchwork panels in two 16 W x 4 T grids using 1.5” squares. This will require a total of 128 1.5” squares. Each panel will measure 4.5” T x 16.5” W.
- Cut the Stabilizer and Lining Fabric to the size indicated in Step 1c
- Affix the patchwork panels to the Stabilizer, arranging them at each end (facing away from each other).
- Cut the Contrast Bottom 11” T x 16.5” W (this is actually the same size in the pattern)
- Using the measurements in Step 7b as a guide, arrange the Handles so that the ends extend past the patchwork panel and are centered on a seam.
Medium
- Create two patchwork panels in two 11 W x 4 T grids using 2.5” squares. This will require a total of 88 2.5” squares. Each panel will measure 8.5” T x 22.5” W.
- Cut the Stabilizer and Lining Fabric to the size indicated in Step 1c
- Affix the patchwork panels to the Stabilizer, arranging them at each end (facing away from each other).
- Cut the Contrast Bottom 17” T x 22.5” W.
- Using the measurements in Step 7b as a guide, arrange the Handles so that the ends extend past the patchwork panel and are centered on a seam.
Large
- Create two patchwork panels in two 14 W x 6 T grids using 2.5” squares. This will require a total of 168 2.5” squares. Each panel will measure 12.5” T x 28.5” W.
- Cut the Stabilizer and Lining Fabric to the size indicated in Step 1c
- Affix the patchwork panels to the Stabilizer, arranging them at each end (facing away from each other).
- Cut the Contrast Bottom 17” T x 28.5” W.
- Using the measurements in Step 7b as a guide, arrange the Handles so that the ends extend past the patchwork panel and are centered on a seam.
Final thoughts
I’m so happy with how this patchwork Altoona Tote turned out, and I was even HAPPIER when I got it finished in time to bring it with me to Chicago! I was attending h+h Americas (an annual crafting trade show) and was so glad to be able to show it off to the ladies in the Ruby Star Society booth.
Obviously, it was a big hit!
Will you be making one of your own?
Let me know in the comments!
